Pre-Build: Construction Steps
 

It is important that certain pre- construction materials be acquired prior to beginning construction. Someone local to the construction project site should organize and order certain items. The following is what is required to begin construction of a Qty (1) Lazarian World Home. The roof trusses can be delivered or fabricated on site. If the truss's are to be fabricated on site using truss jigs, then required quantities of 2X4's (top and bottom cord),2X3's (interior webbing) and 3/8" Struct I or CDX plywood for gussets need to be available to immediately begin fabrication of the roof truss's. Also, 2,500' (lineal feet) of #3 rebar in minimum 12' lengths (to be cut to lengths per plans), plus 750 sq ft of 6 x 6 x 10 x 10 wire mesh should be delivered to the site. Qty (5) - 50 lb bags of ready mix concrete should be delivered to the site to be used to fill the 4"- 6" of concrete in a minimum of two holes per ICF foam block for the walls as described below.  This cement stabilizes/sets the foam blocks to the slab prior to stacking. Rough plumbing, electrical wire, outlet boxes and service gear must be delivered to the site. Gas and oil for the construction equipment should be purchased and the machines prepared for use. A ready mix concrete truck (4 yards), including a concrete pump, should be scheduled to arrive at noon of the second primary working day (after slabs are poured).
              

Step 1: LAYING THE FOUNDATION

Prior to starting construction (before a team arrives), a concrete foundation must be poured with the required rough-in ground plumbing put in place. A  concrete slab/footing will be poured per house plans with #3 rebar 3' length embedded 12" into exterior footings of slab at 16" on center (OC). Verify that the slab is square, flat, and level. Grind or chip where necessary.

IMPORTANT: Layout of rebar to be 16" on center and to be held in 4" from outside edge of slab, including corners. As the ICF foam blocks are stacked, rough plumbing and electric wiring is installed simultaneously. There should be NO extra time allotted for this work.

The home MUST be laid out square. Run a diagonal tape measurement to the slab corners to verify the slab is square. These 2 diagonal measurements must be equal to each other for the slab to be square. In order to "square up" the building  to be built on an "out of square" slab - to achieve the required overall equal dimensions, it may be necessary to hang part of the foam blocks over the edge of the slab.

ALTERNATE FOUNDATION SYSTEM USING LAZARIAN ICF FOAM BLOCKS AS FORMS: The most efficient way to install footings is to utilize Lazarian ICF foam blocks as forms. The 12" W X 24" D footings shown on the Concrete Foundation Details are designed for maximum strength when Lazarian buildings are constructed on POOREST/MOST EXPANSIVE SOIL CONDITIONS. Because the Lazarian buildings are light weight and the reinforced concrete footings, concrete columns at 16" on center, mid span (4' high) and top plate reinforced concrete bond beams (8' plate line) are interlocked to create a true reinforced concrete post and beam building, an alternative foundation system may be used.. Where there is decomposed granite or compacted sand building pads, a 12" W X 12" D footing using the Lazarian ICF foam lintel block as a form will be more than adequate. To install a foundation with Lazarian blocks as forms, simply set string lines to the outside perimeter of the desired building dimensions to the elevation of the finish floor (slab). Then dig the footings. Next, Square up the string lines by checking that the diagonal lengths of the corners of the foundation/slab are the same length. Using Lazarian lintel blocks, cut off one wall/side of the blocks. The remaining outside wall and base of the Lazarian lintel block will serve as a form board and allow for a monolithic pour. Then set the Lazarian blocks to the string line by using #3 rebar set vertically in the bottom of the footing and using a small amount of stiff cement to stabilize the Lazarian foam block to the rebar in the desired position. When the Lazarian blocks are securely in place, the outside wall of the foam block serves a a form board when pouring the slab. When soil conditions are expansive or less than desirable, increase the footing size to 12" X  24" D using a standard Lazarian block as the first course in the foundation system with the Lazarian lintel installed as the top course or form board in the manner described above. In all foundation systems using conventional wood forms or Lazarian blocks as forms, install Qty (2) # 3 rebar continuous horizontally in the foundations and pour concrete in ALL cavities and the slab monolithically.

Step 2: Building Foam Block Walls

 

Once the foundation/slab is poured and can be walked on, EXTERIOR WALL construction can begin. Cut #3 steel rebar (enough for the first ICF blocks to stack 4' high), into 5' lengths, lap 12" and tie to existing #3 vertical rebar embedded in slab. This rebar should extend above the first pour/1/2 wall height of 4 blocks (4' high) 12" in order to tie on rebar for the second step to take it to 8' high. Tie rebar with 3/16" wide, medium duty plastic zip ties. Make sure there are rebar and concrete posts/columns at ends of all walls, that there are posts/columns at all inside and outside corners and for both sides of all rough openings for all doors and windows. Always stack ICF blocks running bond style, meaning staggered on top of each other. Stagger joints a minimum of one hole (8") when building walls and never have ICF block seams lined up vertically to each other. Place the 1st course of the ICF foam blocks on the entire exterior perimeter of slab per the architect drawings. Cut off rebar that has been installed in slab at door openings/ locations flush with the concrete slab (use grinder if necessary).
Pour relatively stiff (high slump) concrete 4"- 6" high in ICF foam block cavities where there is vertical rebar. This concrete will hold the 1st course of the foam blocks in place to allow for stacking the walls. 

NEXT: Snap chalk lines for all interior walls. For the INTERIOR WALLS, place one course of the ICF foam blocks on center of the layout lines and mark concrete (with spray paint, chalk, or marker) 16" OC to the center of the foam block holes. Then remove blocks and drill with 5/8" masonry bit holes 6" to 8" deep at marks. Prior to installing rebar, use air compressor to blow the holes clean and free of all debris. Also, drill holes and add rebar for all inside and outside corner or end posts/columns and on each side of door and window rough openings. Use epoxy and install #3 rebar 3' long into slab 6-8" deep into each hole drilled.
              

Step 3: PREPARING FOR CONCRETE POUR IN WALLS
 

 

Reinstall the 1st course of the foam ICF blocks for the Interior Walls and pour stiff concrete 4"-6" high - minimum two holes per block, PLUS all inside and outside corner or end posts/columns at all interior walls. Once the epoxy has set, then pour 4-6" of stiff pre-mix concrete into the holes with the rebar for the interior walls. After the cement has set up, add the 4' rebar to the rebar that was just installed - exactly as was done previously for the Exterior Walls..

IMPORTANT:  RE-VERIFY all wall layout/dimensions and check for wall squareness prior to stacking block after the 4"- 6" concrete in the first course of the ICF foam block has set up.

Fabricate 2" X 6" wood box frames with plywood gussets 12" solid from the top for all door and window rough openings (overall dimension is 1/4" over the stated rough opening sizes). Use 3" concrete/masonry nails to nail/secure the door frames to the slab. Window box frames can be nailed through their base to the concrete lintels at 4' high (after the first concrete pour to 4') or use 3 1/2" drywall screws to connect to the foam blocks.

Reminder: Install Qty (1) #3 rebar (connect with plastic zip ties) vertical 16" OC and lap rebar 12" to each existing vertical rebar in slab for all Exterior and Interior Walls. Use Qty (1) #3 rebar horizontal in all lintels/headers at 4' and 8' high plate line . 

NOTE: ALL rebar must be lapped minimum 12" vertical and horizontal.

Place ICF foam blocks for all exterior and interior walls on the base course of existing blocks and stack 4' high using beam/lintel blocks for the top block course. ( see foam block stacking drawings)

Cut the foam blocks (with electric wire or Sawzall) as required and stack foam blocks snug to the 2" X 6" wood frames at the door and window rough openings.

NOTE: To tighten wire in electric wire (wand), compress ends of wand handle, and then add wire by twisting each end in eyehook. Install wire and then release tension of the metal wand ends and the wire will be tight.

Install foam Hole Plugs in the top of ALL ICF foam block lintel/header openings at 4' and 8' where there is NO vertical rebar.

At ALL window and door openings, block out ALL beam/lintel vertical holes at the 8' plate line with foam Hole Plugs.


Cut a hole (with the hole saw) in the shape and size of the beam/ lintel at the 4' and 8' beam/lintel line where walls intersect to provide a CONTINUOUS concrete and rebar (90 degree bends) CHANNEL BEAM/LINTEL to tie the walls together in the lintels at ALL corners and  "T" intersections.

Install 90 degree #3 rebar bends (right angles) in beams/lintels 2' long each end (4' total length) at ALL inside/outside corners and "T" intersections to TIE/LOCK ALL walls together at 4' and 8' high..

Install rough electric and plumbing using the horizontal lintel cavities at 4' and 8' high as a chase and use open ICF foam vertical block holes (vertical holes which will not have rebar/concrete) as chases.

THERE ARE TWO CONCRETE POURS TO 8' WALL HEIGHT: When you pour concrete into all open ICF foam block holes, FIRST fill the "U" shaped channels in the beams/lintels with concrete to 4' high walls. Make sure that you  pour concrete in posts/columns next to BOTH sides of all doors and windows AND all inside/outside corners and end posts/ columns. NEXT, repeat the same steps as above and pour walls using the "U" shaped lintels/headers as concrete pour channels to complete the walls at 8' high.
 

Step 4: TIGHTENING WALLS

Before pouring concrete, at all Wall Intersections and Wall Corners, use two-part Epoxy to secure ICF foam block walls to each other at the beam/lintel only (4' and 8' high beams/lintels). Also, epoxy beam/Lintel End Pieces into the ICF foam block. This will strengthen the connections, keep the walls from moving, and avoid blowouts of the Lintel End Pieces.

If  wall "T" intersections and/ or wall corners seem loose, suck them in to each other by using metal rebar tie wire connected to vertical rebar, 18"-24" inside the wall at the beam/lintel and run to outside the wall. Use a wood block to prevent the wire from cutting into the foam block from the outside as you twist the tie wire to force the walls to lock together.
 

Step 5: POURING CONCRETE
 

The Lazarian World Home requires approximately 7-8 cubic yards of concrete for all the walls to 8' high. Order 4 cubic yards for the first pour to 4' high. Pour concrete (MUST USE CONCRETE PUMP TO CONTROL FLOW VOLUME OF CONCRETE). Fabricate shields by cutting a piece of the corrugated metal roofing length-wise into two pieces and adding handles. Place the two metal shields on both sides of the beam/lintel "U" shaped channel and direct the flow of wet concrete to the lintel. The concrete will find its way down to the holes of the posts/columns. Vibrators are not necessary. It is best to pour a "wet" 3/8" rock 2,000 psi concrete/slurry mix.

Plumb and Line wall braces are normally not necessary due to the designed stability of the Lazarian ICF foam block and limiting the concrete pours to 4' height at a time. Prior to concrete pours, have available extra 8'&10' length -  2 X 4's to serve as bracing for plumb and line in case of ICF form movement or failure. Use concrete nails to secure wood bracing to the existing slab.

Immediately after the pour, check all walls for plumb and line. Then check every half hour, hour and two hours and brace as necessary. As the concrete dries, the walls tend to move and twist slightly.

The NEXT DAY, stack ICF foam blocks to full 8' height. Install beams/lintels as the top block at the 8' plate line for all exterior and interior walls.

Follow the same procedure as the first 4' high ICF foam block stacking method. Install Qty (1) #3 rebar - 3'6" lengths vertical to full 8' plate line height in all wall posts/columns at 16" OC. Tie to existing 5' vertical rebar from first pour (to 4' high) and lap 12" so there is rebar flush to the top (and not further) of the 8' block.

Install Qty (1) #3 rebar horizontal in beams/lintels continuous at 8' plate line - all Exterior and Interior walls. Use a hole saw to cut a channel in the foam beam/lintel blocks in the size and shape of the adjacent beam/lintel the same as was done at the 4' high beam/lintel so as to have a continuous reinforced concrete beam at the 8' plate line. Install 90 degree right angle rebar and lap existing rebar at all inside/outside corners and "T" intersections same as 4' high beam/lintel to tie/lock all the walls together.

Do not block the ICF foam block holes that will tie the reinforced concrete posts/columns to the reinforced concrete beam/lintels as support for the rough openings for the doors and windows. Connect the horizontal #3 rebar in the beam/lintels to the vertical #3 rebar in the posts/columns with plastic zip ties to complete the rough openings with 2' long 90 degree/right angles of #3 rebar to tie in the columns with the beams/lintels.

Block the rest of the vertical holes (that do not contain rebar) in the ICF foam blocks at the 8' plate line with foam Hole Plugs to create beams/lintels for these window and door openings.

Install rough plumbing and electric to ceiling light fixtures, roof vents, etc. prior to pouring concrete to the 8' plate line.

Cut or break off the foam tabs (that are used to interlock/connect ICF foam blocks to each other) at the TOP of the beam/lintel foam blocks, making the top of the beam/lintel a flat surface at 8' high. The roof truss system will now have a level concrete beam/lintel area to install the 2"X8" wood plate.

Pour concrete to full height of 8'. Fill the channel cavity of the beam/lintel flush to the top of the ICF foam block at 8'.

Remember:Do not pour concrete above the flow line in the trough space into the foam tab area. Level the concrete for a flat plate line.
               

Step 6: WINDOWS AND DOORS
 

The sides of the rough openings for the doors and windows, by design have a minimum 1" of foam as separation from the concrete posts/columns. This foam is to remain untouched or trimmed as necessary to serve as a "trimmer" so that the doors and windows will be a snug to the rough opening size.
Prior to window and door installation: Fill all bottoms of holes in the beam/lintel ICF foam block directly ABOVE windows and doors with foam hole plugs. If these plugs are not available, cut 1/4" Masonite board to fit and install with caulking.

If the windows supplied have plastic/vinyl nailing tabs designed to nail windows to the exterior of a conventionally framed building, then cut off the tabs. The windows will then be able to slide into the center of the rough openings similar to a "retrofit" type window. Use a utility knife to cut into the plastic tabs and then use lineman's pliers to break the tabs off with a clean break.

Install all doors and windows using various length "blue" concrete screws and screw minimum 1" into concrete posts/columns. The foam between the concrete columns and the window or door unit is to remain and serve as a trimmer/adjustment.

Use Qty (6) screws total per opening for doors and Qty (4) screws total for windows and screw from the sides of the doors and windows into concrete columns only. Screws into the top and bottom beam/lintels are not necessary. Screw WINDOWS through the wall of the vinyl side frames of the track that do not have glass. Screw DOORS through the wood of the side jambs. It is not necessary to recess the screws.

After the windows and doors are screwed in place, caulk the perimeter of the unit on both sides (interior and exterior) of the wall to make them waterproof and air tight.

Step 7: Electrical

Install rough-in boxes for all switches, outlets, electric base board heating, water heaters and ceiling lights and leave tails to tie in at finish.  Install service gear.
                          

Step 8: PLASTERING

General Notes:

Prior to plastering, mask both sides of all window and door openings with Visqueen and plasterer's Red Tape. Leave windows open and center of visqueen cut for ventilation. Caulk and patch plaster all noticeable seam cracks, foam block defects, etc. before spraying plaster.
 

REPEAT the caulking process between each coat of plaster.
 

Use drywall hoppers with largest orifice available with air compressor to "plaster" exterior and interior of the home. With Ben Ron Spray Plastering machine, use orifice size depending on sand grit size and strictly follow directions in BenRon.com Operating Manual. The machine operates well without any orifice in areas where the local sand has large grit.
 

If the drywall hopper seems to be clogged, shake hopper up and down and continue to blow air. If this does not clear the problem, then stop plastering. Then remove and clean nozzle of debris.

EXTERIOR of home is to receive three coats of plaster (minimum 1/2") and INTERIOR to receive two coats of plaster (minimum 3/8".

 

Steps for Plastering Using Drywall Hoppers

1. Spray a mist of water on the foam wall surfaces before applying plaster material. The foam surface should be damp, not wet.
2. Use the Imer Henchman 2 HSM gasoline Mortar Mixer (larger jobs) or a 5 gallon plastic bucket to mix the plaster material.
3. If  drywall hoppers are used for plastering, take an extra bucket and notch out an approximate 3" W X 5" D area for the drywall hopper to be placed when filling with plaster.
4. Add approximately 3" of water into the bottom of the mixer. 
5. Pour a 50 lb. bag of  Expo Pro Bond or Omega brand plaster into the Imer mortar mixer.
6.  ALTERNATE:  Mix 3 parts sand with 1 part cement and add 2 % Vinnapas Epoxy binder and 5% Lime. Vinnapas is a powdered polymer which allows the plaster to bond with the polystyrene ICF foam block and is made by Wacker Polymes in Germany. The California distributor is PT Hutchins Company LTD (626) 333-3329 Att: Michael Duarte cell # (310) 567-2931. The Lime keeps the sand and cement from separating, thereby clogging the sprayer/hoses and creates a slicker material to pass through the orifice.
7. Mix until the plaster is thoroughly mixed with the water. Add water as necessary.
8. Scrape all interior surfaces of the mixer to eliminate clumping.
9. Mix thoroughly to a smooth "milkshake-like" texture.
10. The material should basically hang onto the paddle when removed and fall into a 5 gallon bucket with about a 1" slump.
11. Wait 5 to 10 minutes to allow the plaster material to "rest."
12. Mix the material again.
13. Use a heavy duty 1/4" open metal screen encased in a 2" X 4" wood frame and pass all the plaster material through it into a bucket. This will eliminate residual clumping and small pebbles that will block/clog the hopper orifice.
14. Prior to placing plaster material into the drywall hopper, Spray WD-40 or rub vegetable oil into spray hopper to "grease" and keep plaster material from sticking to the sides.
15. Connect 2 to 3 drywall hoppers to the air supply and pour material into hopper - about half full. Use both heavy duty Dewalt/Emglo gasoline powered air compressors  with  2-3 drywall hoppers connected to each air compressor.
16. Use spray head with large orifice and adjust air pressure as needed.
17. Hold hopper approximately 12" from intended surface and spray on plaster min 1/8" thick.
18. Steadily move hopper back and forth to avoid heavy build up.
19. After material dries, spray min 1/8" second lift of plaster. 
20. Exterior plaster is three coats of heavy spray sand texture. Leave plaster finish with natural texture as sprayed.
21. Interior plaster is two coats. After each coat, use 24" wide steel trowel to lightly knock down texture within 5-10 minutes of spraying.
22. Minimum total thickness is 3/8" to1/2".
23. When plastering is finished, use a putty knife or sanding block to clean up rough edges on interior and exterior windowsills and wall corners. 
24. It is imperative to clean the hoppers and spray nozzles thoroughly with water after plastering.
25. Use the BenRon. R2 gasoline Spray Plaster machine on larger jobs. Strickly follow the instructions in the BenRon.com Operating manual. Prior to running plaster through the BenRon, mix a 5 gallon bucket of SlickTex and run through the BenRon and hoses. This will allow the plaster material to flow more easily.Use the BenRon only in locations where there is running water. It is CRITICAL that the machine, nozzles, hose and shut off valves are cleaned thoroughly after use. Do not allow the machine to sit for lunch breaks or it will clog with plaster!

 

Step 9: REPAIRING ICF FOAM DAMAGE

Cut out a piece from a ICF foam block that will fit snug in the damaged area/hole. Then take the foam patch and cover edges with plaster or epoxy and push gently into damaged area until the patch is flush with the surrounding surface area. (Sand foam patch as necessary) Then cover area with plaster.
                           

Step 10: ROOF
 

TOP PLATE: Install a continuous 2" X 8" wood plate on the perimeter of the house with 3 1/4" Tapcon Hex Head Blue screws embedded a minimum of 1 1/2" into reinforced concrete beam/lintel at the 8' plate line per Detail 1 and Detail 2 of plans.

TO INSTALL THE TOP PLATE:
 Hold in the 2" X 8" plate to the interior of the home approximately 2 1/2" from the exterior sides of the home. Verify dimensions (1" for T1-11 Plywood/Tyvek and 1 1/2" for Truss width). Layout for truss's. Between each truss position, at the FRONT AND REAR of the home, layout and install Qty (2) Tapcon Blue Screws minimum 1 1/2" into the concrete beam/lintel to connect the 2" X 8" plate to the reinforced concrete beam/lintel. Then cut a (plus or minus) 1 3/4" slot (adjust width of slot depending on the width of the truss including the plywood gussets) for the truss installation. (SEE architect details) Therefore layout for the approximate 1 1/2" wide trusses at 24" OC and allow for plates/blocks at 22 1/4" to create a (plus or minus) 1 3/4" slot between each truss with two Tapcon Blue Screw anchors per block between each truss. On the GABLE END SIDES of the home, install the Tapcon Blue Screws at 24" OC to connect the 2"X8" plate to the reinforced concrete beam/lintel. 

Alternative to connecting 2" X 8" Plate to the reinforced concrete lintel/beam:: Instead of using Tapcon Blue screws to connect the 2" X 8" plate to the concrete lintel/beam at the 8' plate line, install 5/8" X 8" anchor bolts with Simpson bp 5/8" square washers into the 2" X 8" plate at 24" OC (layout to avoid the truss locations) and place the 2" X 8" wood plate level onto the wet concrete beam/lintel - pressing the bolts into wet cement. Cut the notches in the 2" X 8" wood top plate for the trusses after the concrete has set up.

Note: The perimeter 2" X 8" plates are also used as backing for nailing the ceiling drywall at all the exterior walls. Hold the 2" X 8" plate to the inside of the wall per plans to allow for drywall nailing. At the interior walls, use 2" concrete/masonry nails driven into the concrete lintel/beam to install 1/2" plywood backing for drywall nailing.

 

TRUSS AND ROOF INSTALLATION:
 

• After truss's are set in place into the slots of the 2"X8" plate, nail blocks between trusses with Qty (2) rows of  2" X 4"s at the truss ridge line and at corrugated roof lap lines. See architect plans for additional blocking depending on snow loads.
• IMPORTANT: Install minimum Qty (4) 45 degree wood braces from the top cord of the truss's connecting to the 2"X8" plate at the top of the 8' walls. This will hold the truss system in place, create a stronger roof diaphragm and keep the truss's from rolling in a storm or earthquake.
• Install Teco Clips (one side of truss) connecting trusses  to the 2" X 8" top plate  24"OC plate/blocks per plans at perimeter of ALL exterior walls. Toe nail the other side of the truss into the 2"  X 8" top plate.
• Install (toe nail) 2X blocking (bird stop) BETWEEN the trusses at 8' plate line flush to the face of the ICF foam block at the front and back side of the home per Detail 2 of plans and caulk all edges. 
• Screw corrugated metal roofing to trusses with self tapping/sealing screws (waterproof with rubber/plastic washers) at approximately 14" OC on the ridge cap and pitch/slope sides and one screw 12" OC in the middle of the corrugated sheet roofing wherever there is added wood blocking below. Use 2" special self-tapping/self sealing sheet metal corrugated roofing screws. Begin installation at one side/edge of the home and lap (therefore screw through two sheets of metal roofing that are lapped for water tight) corrugated roofing sheets to center on trusses at 24" OC.
• Install metal ridge cap for corrugated metal roofing with screws 14" OC.
• Lap all corrugated metal roofing vertically at pitched areas a minimum of 24" and ridge cap a minimum of 12".
• Install corrugated metal roofing beginning from the lower 8' plate line (bottom) finishing at the ridge line (top).
• There is a 12" eave/overhang on the front and rear of home. Install corrugated metal roofing 13" overhang or 1" to the weather per the drawings.
• Install Z-bar flashing, tyvek and T1-11 Plywood to gable end truss's per Detail 1, per plans. Install backing by adding 2" X 4"s as required for a flat nailing surface for the T1-11 siding. (Note: It may be easier to install the T1-11 siding prior to installing the corrugated metal roofing.)
• Install Qty 2 gable end vents
• Staple Tyvek to gable end trusses.
• Use nail gun with #8 common nails to install T1-11.
• Alternative to connecting truss's to 2" X 8" top plate: Connect/anchor the ends of the trusses to the 2" X 8" wood plate with Qty 2 Simpson S/H3 Hurricane Ties, one on each side on the ends of each truss. This method of attachment may replace the A34 Teco clips and 2-16d nails toe nailing the trusses to the wood plate as per plan details. On gable ends, connect trusses to the 2" X 8" wood plate with A34 Teco clips per plans.

                          

Step 11: INSULATION AND DRYWALL

DRYWALL CEILINGS:

Prior to insulation and drywall: Check for nails that missed the trusses/blocking. These are "shiners" and will cause leaks. Leave nail in place and patch with Henry's roof sealant.
 

• Staple R19 Kraft faced bats to bottom of trusses in ceilings only.
• At exterior walls, 2" X 8" top plates are backing for drywall.
• At both sides of all Interior Walls, install 1/2" plywood flat between the trusses for drywall nailing.
• Run drywall perpendicular and screw 6" OC to the wood trusses. There is no need for additional backing - butt ends of drywall screw to the trusses and drywall sides are not screwed except where there are trusses.
• Tape all drywall joints with self sticking fiberglass mesh tape.
• Hand trowel Qty (2) coats of drywall joint compound on all tape joints and sand smooth.
• Texture ceilings with Qty (1) coat of plaster texture using drywall hopper and knock down with 24" trowel.

Step 12: Exterior Painting
  

Step 13: CABINETS/TUB-SHOWER/CLOSET SHELVING/WINDOW SHUTTERS

 

Step 14: PAINTING/FINISH HARDWARE-ELECTRIC-PLUMBING/COUNTER TOPS/LIGHTING;APPLIANCES/WATER HEATERS/BASEBOARD/HEATERS

• Any connections to walls, such as installing cabinets and shelving - use blue screws and connect to concrete columns in ICF foam blocks
• Ariston 2.5 gallon water heater is installed under the kitchen sink.
• Ariston 4 gal water heater is installed above the toilet in the bath. Install in a box made with T1-11 and 2" X 4" framework connected to the wall with blue screws.
• Plumbing fixtures and appliances are from local suppliers.
• Baseboard wall heaters (electric or gas - see plans) are from local suppliers
• Counter tops may be Formica or tile.
• Balance of finish work, use conventional methods.
• Paint with heavy texture weenie rollers to completely cover the rough wall and ceiling surfaces.