Updated: November 5, 2007
|
The LAZARIAN WORLD HOME utilizes polystryrene Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF)
as a wall system/form
to create an extremely strong structural frame commonly known as reinforced concrete post and beam construction.
The ICF forms remain after the concrete is poured and then serve as
insulation with an R-value (thermal resistance) of 20 for the
home while providing a solid surface for plastering interior and
exterior walls. The following information details requirements
for the construction of the Lazarian
World Home. These procedures may easily be adapted for the
LAZARIAN II HOME, LAZARIAN 4PLEX HOME, LAZARIAN 4 CLASSROOM SCHOOL BUILDING, and
the LAZARIAN CHURCH/COMMUNITY MEETING BUILDING. PRE-BUILD: TOOLS AND MATERIALS
PRE-BUILD: CONSTRUCTION
GROUNDWORK
It is important that certain pre- construction materials be acquired prior to beginning
construction. Someone local to the construction project site should
organize and order certain items. The following is what is
required to begin construction of a Qty (1) Lazarian World Home. The roof trusses can be delivered or
fabricated on site. If the truss's are to be fabricated on site
using truss jigs, then required quantities of 2X4's (top and
bottom cord),2X3's (interior webbing) and 3/8" Struct I or CDX
plywood for gussets need to be available to immediately begin
fabrication of the roof truss's. Also, 2,500' (lineal feet) of #3 rebar in minimum 12'
lengths (to be cut to lengths per plans), plus 750 sq ft of 6 x 6 x 10 x 10 wire mesh should be
delivered to the site. Qty (5) - 50 lb bags of ready mix concrete
should be delivered to the site to be used to fill the 4"- 6" of concrete
in a minimum of two holes per ICF foam block for the walls
as described below. This cement stabilizes/sets the foam
blocks to the slab prior to stacking. Rough plumbing, electrical
wire, outlet boxes and service gear must be delivered to the
site. Gas and oil for the construction equipment should be
purchased and the machines prepared for use. A ready mix
concrete truck (4 yards), including a concrete pump, should be
scheduled to arrive at noon of the second primary working day
(after slabs are poured). |
 |
Prior to starting construction (before a team arrives), a concrete foundation must be poured with the required rough-in ground plumbing put in place. A concrete slab/footing will be poured per house plans with #3 rebar 3' length embedded 12" into exterior footings of slab at 16" on center (OC). Verify that the slab is square, flat, and level. Grind or chip where necessary.
IMPORTANT: Layout of rebar to be 16" on center and to be held in 4" from outside edge of slab, including corners. As the ICF foam blocks are stacked, rough plumbing and electric wiring is installed simultaneously. There should be NO extra time allotted for this work.
The home MUST be laid out square. Run a diagonal tape measurement to the slab corners to verify the slab is square. These 2 diagonal measurements must be equal to each other for the slab to be square. In order to "square up" the building to be built on an "out of square" slab - to achieve the required overall equal dimensions, it may be necessary to hang part of the foam blocks over the edge of the slab.
ALTERNATE FOUNDATION SYSTEM: Per Concrete Foundation
Plan Details, install footings using Lazarian ICF foam blocks as
forms and adapt instructions as indicated below.
Foundation Plan
(PDF)
STEP 2: BUILDING FOAM BLOCK
WALLS
 |
Once the foundation/slab is poured and can be walked on, EXTERIOR WALL construction can begin. Cut #3 steel rebar (enough for the first ICF blocks to stack 4' high), into 5' lengths, lap 12" and tie to existing #3 vertical rebar embedded in slab. This rebar should extend above the first pour/1/2 wall height of 4 blocks (4' high) 12” in order to tie on rebar for the second step to take it to 8’ high. Tie rebar with 3/16" wide, medium duty plastic zip ties. Make sure there are rebar and concrete posts/columns at ends of all walls, that there are posts/columns at all inside and outside corners and for both sides of all rough openings for all doors and windows. Always stack ICF blocks running bond style, meaning staggered on top of each other. Stagger joints a minimum of one hole (8") when building walls and never have ICF block seams lined up vertically to each other. Place the 1st course of the ICF foam blocks on the entire exterior perimeter of slab per the architect drawings. Cut off rebar that has been installed in slab at door openings/ locations flush with the concrete slab (use grinder if necessary).
Pour relatively stiff (high slump) concrete 4"- 6" high in ICF foam block cavities where there is vertical rebar. This concrete will hold the 1st course of the foam blocks in place to allow for stacking the walls.
NEXT: Snap chalk lines for
all interior walls. For the INTERIOR WALLS, place one course of the ICF
foam blocks on center of the layout lines and mark concrete
(with spray paint, chalk, or marker) 16" OC to the center of the
foam block holes. Then remove blocks and drill with 5/8" masonry
bit holes 6" to 8" deep at marks. Prior to installing
rebar, use air compressor to blow the holes clean and free of
all debris. Also, drill holes and add rebar for all inside
and outside corner or end posts/columns and on each side of door
and window rough openings. Use epoxy and install #3 rebar 3'
long into slab 6-8" deep into each hole drilled.
Foam Block Layout Elev. 1 (PDF)
Foam Block Layout Elev. 2 (PDF)
Foam Block Layout Elev. 3 (PDF)
Foam Block Layout Elev. 4 (PDF)
Steps to Stacking Foam Blocks Elev. 1 (PDF)
Steps to Stacking Foam Blocks Elev. 2 (PDF)
Steps to Stacking Foam Blocks Elev. 3 (PDF)
Steps to Stacking Foam Blocks Elev. 4 (PDF)
STEP 3: PREPARING FOR
CONCRETE
POUR IN WALLS
 |
Reinstall the 1st course of the foam ICF
blocks for the Interior Walls and pour stiff concrete 4"-6" high – minimum two holes
per block, PLUS all inside and outside corner or end
posts/columns at all interior walls. Once the epoxy has set, then
pour 4-6” of stiff pre-mix concrete into the holes with the rebar
for the interior walls. After the cement has set up, add
the 4’ rebar to the rebar that was just installed - exactly as
was done previously for the Exterior Walls..
IMPORTANT: RE-VERIFY all wall layout/dimensions and check for wall squareness
prior to stacking block after the 4"- 6" concrete in the first
course of the ICF foam block has set up.
Fabricate 2" X 6" wood box frames with plywood gussets 12" solid
from the top for all door and window rough openings (overall
dimension is 1/4" over the stated rough opening sizes). Use 3"
concrete/masonry nails to nail/secure the door frames to the
slab. Window box frames can be nailed through their base to the
concrete lintels at 4' high (after the first concrete pour to
4') or use 3 1/2" drywall screws to connect to the foam blocks.
Reminder:
Install Qty (1) #3 rebar (connect with plastic zip ties) vertical 16" OC
and lap rebar 12" to each existing vertical rebar in slab
for all Exterior and Interior Walls. Use Qty (1) #3 rebar
horizontal in all lintels/headers at 4' and 8' high plate line .
NOTE: ALL rebar must be lapped minimum 12" vertical and
horizontal.
Place ICF foam blocks for all exterior and interior walls on the
base course of existing blocks and stack 4' high using
beam/lintel blocks for the top block course. ( see foam
block stacking drawings)
Cut the foam blocks (with electric wire or Sawzall) as required
and stack foam blocks snug to the 2" X 6" wood frames at the
door and window rough openings.
NOTE: To tighten wire in electric wire (wand), compress ends of wand
handle, and then add wire by twisting each end in eyehook.
Install wire and then release tension of the metal wand ends and
the wire will be tight.
Install foam Hole Plugs in the top of ALL ICF foam block
lintel/header openings at 4' and 8' where there is NO
vertical rebar.
At ALL window and door openings, block out ALL beam/lintel
vertical holes at the 8' plate line with foam Hole Plugs.
Cut a hole (with the hole saw) in the shape and size of the
beam/ lintel at the 4' and 8' beam/lintel line where walls
intersect to provide a CONTINUOUS concrete and rebar (90 degree
bends) CHANNEL BEAM/LINTEL to tie the walls together in the
lintels at ALL
corners and “T” intersections.
Install 90 degree #3 rebar bends (right angles) in beams/lintels
2' long each end (4' total length) at ALL inside/outside corners
and “T” intersections to TIE/LOCK ALL walls together at 4'
and 8' high..
Install rough electric and plumbing using the horizontal lintel
cavities at 4' and 8' high as a chase and use open ICF foam
vertical block holes
(vertical holes which will not have rebar/concrete) as chases.
THERE ARE TWO CONCRETE POURS TO 8' WALL HEIGHT: When you pour concrete into all open ICF foam block
holes, FIRST fill the "U" shaped channels in the beams/lintels with concrete to 4' high
walls. Make sure that you pour concrete in posts/columns
next to BOTH sides of all doors and windows AND all
inside/outside corners and end posts/ columns. NEXT, repeat the
same steps as above and pour walls using the "U" shaped
lintels/headers as concrete pour channels to complete the walls
at 8' high.
STEP 4:
TIGHTENING WALLS
 |
Before pouring concrete, at all Wall Intersections and Wall
Corners, use two-part Epoxy to secure ICF foam block walls to
each other at the beam/lintel only (4' and 8' high
beams/lintels). Also, epoxy beam/Lintel End Pieces into the ICF
foam block. This will strengthen the connections, keep the walls
from moving, and avoid blowouts of the Lintel End Pieces.
If wall “T” intersections and/ or wall corners seem loose, suck them
in to each other by using metal rebar tie wire connected to vertical rebar,
18"-24" inside the wall at the beam/lintel and run to outside
the wall. Use a wood block to prevent the wire from cutting into
the foam block from the outside as you twist the tie wire to
force the walls to lock together.
STEP 5: POURING CONCRETE
 |
Plumb and Line wall braces are normally not necessary due to the designed stability of the Lazarian ICF foam block and limiting the concrete pours to 4' height at a time. Prior to concrete pours, have available extra 8'&10' length - 2 X 4's to serve as bracing for plumb and line in case of ICF form movement or failure. Use concrete nails to secure wood bracing to the existing slab.
Immediately after the pour, check all walls for plumb and line. Then check every half hour, hour and two hours and brace as necessary. As the concrete dries, the walls tend to move and twist slightly.
The NEXT DAY, stack ICF foam blocks to full 8' height. Install beams/lintels as the top block at the 8' plate line for all exterior and interior walls.
Follow the same procedure as the first 4' high ICF foam block stacking method. Install Qty (1) #3 rebar – 3'6" lengths vertical to full 8' plate line height in all wall posts/columns at 16" OC. Tie to existing 5' vertical rebar from first pour (to 4' high) and lap 12" so there is rebar flush to the top (and not further) of the 8’ block.
Install Qty (1) #3 rebar horizontal in beams/lintels continuous at 8' plate line – all Exterior and Interior walls. Use a hole saw to cut a channel in the foam beam/lintel blocks in the size and shape of the adjacent beam/lintel the same as was done at the 4' high beam/lintel so as to have a continuous reinforced concrete beam at the 8' plate line. Install 90 degree right angle rebar and lap existing rebar at all inside/outside corners and “T” intersections same as 4' high beam/lintel to tie/lock all the walls together.
Do not block the ICF foam block holes that will tie the reinforced concrete posts/columns to the reinforced concrete beam/lintels as support for the rough openings for the doors and windows. Connect the horizontal #3 rebar in the beam/lintels to the vertical #3 rebar in the posts/columns with plastic zip ties to complete the rough openings with 2' long 90 degree/right angles of #3 rebar to tie in the columns with the beams/lintels.
Block the rest of the vertical holes (that do not contain rebar) in the ICF foam blocks at the 8' plate line with foam Hole Plugs to create beams/lintels for these window and door openings.
Install rough plumbing and electric to ceiling light fixtures, roof vents, etc. prior to pouring concrete to the 8' plate line.
Cut or break off the foam tabs (that are used to interlock/connect ICF foam blocks to each other) at the TOP of the beam/lintel foam blocks, making the top of the beam/lintel a flat surface at 8' high. The roof truss system will now have a level concrete beam/lintel area to install the 2"X8" wood plate.
Pour concrete to full height of 8'. Fill the channel cavity of the beam/lintel flush to the top of the ICF foam block at 8'.
Remember:Do not pour concrete above the flow line in the trough space into the foam tab area. Level the concrete for a flat plate line.
STEP 6: WINDOWS AND
DOORS
 |
Prior to window and door installation: Fill all bottoms of holes in the beam/lintel ICF foam block directly ABOVE windows and doors with foam hole plugs. If these plugs are not available, cut 1/4" Masonite board to fit and install with caulking.
If the windows supplied have plastic/vinyl nailing tabs designed to nail windows to the exterior of a conventionally framed building, then cut off the tabs. The windows will then be able to slide into the center of the rough openings similar to a “retrofit” type window. Use a utility knife to cut into the plastic tabs and then use lineman’s pliers to break the tabs off with a clean break.
Install all doors and windows using various length “blue” concrete screws and screw minimum 1" into concrete posts/columns. The foam between the concrete columns and the window or door unit is to remain and serve as a trimmer/adjustment.
Use Qty (6) screws total per opening for doors and Qty (4) screws total for windows and screw from the sides of the doors and windows into concrete columns only. Screws into the top and bottom beam/lintels are not necessary. Screw WINDOWS through the wall of the vinyl side frames of the track that do not have glass. Screw DOORS through the wood of the side jambs. It is not necessary to recess the screws.
After the windows and doors are screwed in place, caulk the perimeter of the unit on both sides (interior and exterior) of the wall to make them waterproof and air tight.
STEP 7: ELECTRICAL
Install rough-in boxes for all switches, outlets, electric base board heating, water heaters and ceiling lights and leave tails to tie in at finish. Install service gear.
Electrical Plan (PDF)
STEP 8: PLASTERING
 |
General Notes:
Prior to plastering, mask both sides of all window and door
openings with Visqueen and plasterer’s Red Tape. Leave windows
open and center of visqueen cut for ventilation. Caulk and patch plaster all noticeable
seam cracks, foam block defects, etc. before spraying plaster.
REPEAT the caulking process between each
coat of plaster.
Use drywall hoppers with largest orifice available with air
compressor to “plaster” exterior and interior of the home. With
Ben Ron Spray Plastering machine, use orifice size depending on
sand grit size and strictly
follow directions in BenRon.com Operating Manual. The machine
operates well without any orifice in areas where the local sand
has large grit.
If the drywall hopper seems to be clogged, shake hopper up and down
and continue to blow air. If this does not clear the problem,
then stop plastering. Then remove and clean nozzle of debris.
EXTERIOR of home is to receive three coats of plaster (minimum
1/2") and INTERIOR to receive two coats of plaster (minimum
3/8".
Steps for Plastering Using Drywall Hoppers
- Spray a mist of water on the foam wall surfaces before applying plaster material. The foam surface should be damp, not wet.
- Use the Imer Henchman 2 HSM gasoline Mortar Mixer (larger jobs) or a 5 gallon plastic bucket to mix the plaster material.
- If drywall hoppers are used for plastering, take an extra bucket and notch out an approximate 3" W X 5" D area for the drywall hopper to be placed when filling with plaster.
- Add approximately 3" of water into the bottom of the mixer.
- Pour a 50 lb. bag of Expo Pro Bond or Omega brand plaster into the Imer mortar mixer.
- ALTERNATE: Mix 3 parts sand with 1 part cement and add 2 % Vinnapas Epoxy binder and 5% Lime. Vinnapas is a powdered polymer which allows the plaster to bond with the polystyrene ICF foam block and is made by Wacker Polymes in Germany. The California distributor is PT Hutchins Company LTD (626) 333-3329 Att: Michael Duarte cell # (310) 567-2931. The Lime keeps the sand and cement from separating, thereby clogging the sprayer/hoses and creates a slicker material to pass through the orifice.
- Mix until the plaster is thoroughly mixed with the water. Add water as necessary.
- Scrape all interior surfaces of the mixer to eliminate clumping.
- Mix thoroughly to a smooth “milkshake-like” texture.
- The material should basically hang onto the paddle when removed and fall into a 5 gallon bucket with about a 1" slump.
- Wait 5 to 10 minutes to allow the plaster material to “rest.”
- Mix the material again.
- Use a heavy duty 1/4" open metal screen encased in a 2" X 4" wood frame and pass all the plaster material through it into a bucket. This will eliminate residual clumping and small pebbles that will block/clog the hopper orifice.
- Prior to placing plaster material into the drywall hopper, Spray WD-40 or rub vegetable oil into spray hopper to "grease" and keep plaster material from sticking to the sides.
- Connect 2 to 3 drywall hoppers to the air supply and pour material into hopper – about half full. Use both heavy duty Dewalt/Emglo gasoline powered air compressors with 2-3 drywall hoppers connected to each air compressor.
- Use spray head with large orifice and adjust air pressure as needed.
- Hold hopper approximately 12" from intended surface and spray on plaster min 1/8" thick.
- Steadily move hopper back and forth to avoid heavy build up.
- After material dries, spray min 1/8" second lift of plaster.
- Exterior plaster is three coats of heavy spray sand texture. Leave plaster finish with natural texture as sprayed.
- Interior plaster is two coats. After each coat, use 24" wide steel trowel to lightly knock down texture within 5-10 minutes of spraying.
- Minimum total thickness is 3/8" to1/2".
- When plastering is finished, use a putty knife or sanding block to clean up rough edges on interior and exterior windowsills and wall corners.
- It is imperative to clean the hoppers and spray nozzles thoroughly with water after plastering.
- Use the BenRon. R2 gasoline Spray Plaster machine on larger jobs. Strickly follow the instructions in the BenRon.com Operating manual. Prior to running plaster through the BenRon, mix a 5 gallon bucket of SlickTex and run through the BenRon and hoses. This will allow the plaster material to flow more easily.Use the BenRon only in locations where there is running water. It is CRITICAL that the machine, nozzles, hose and shut off valves are cleaned thoroughly after use. Do not allow the machine to sit for lunch breaks or it will clog with plaster!
STEP 9: REPAIRING ICF FOAM DAMAGE
Cut out a piece from a ICF foam block that will fit snug in the damaged area/hole. Then take the foam patch and cover edges with plaster or epoxy and push gently into damaged area until the patch is flush with the surrounding surface area. (Sand foam patch as necessary) Then cover area with plaster.
STEP 10: ROOF
 |
TO INSTALL THE TOP PLATE:
Hold
in the 2" X 8" plate to the interior of the home approximately 2 1/2" from
the exterior sides of the home. Verify dimensions (1" for T1-11 Plywood/Tyvek
and 1 1/2" for Truss width). Layout for truss's. Between each truss
position, at the FRONT AND REAR of the home, layout and install Qty (2) Tapcon Blue
Screws minimum 1 1/2" into the concrete beam/lintel to
connect the 2" X 8" plate to the reinforced concrete
beam/lintel. Then cut a (plus or minus) 1 3/4" slot (adjust width of slot
depending on the width of the truss including the plywood
gussets) for the truss installation. (SEE architect details) Therefore layout for the
approximate 1 1/2" wide trusses at
24" OC and allow for plates/blocks at 22 1/4" to create a
(plus or minus) 1 3/4"
slot between each truss with two Tapcon Blue Screw anchors
per block between each truss. On the GABLE END SIDES of the
home, install the Tapcon Blue Screws at 24" OC to connect the
2"X8" plate to the reinforced concrete beam/lintel.
Alternative to connecting 2" X 8" Plate to the
reinforced concrete
lintel/beam:: Instead of using Tapcon Blue
screws to connect the 2" X 8" plate to the concrete lintel/beam
at the 8' plate line, install 5/8" X 8" anchor bolts with Simpson bp 5/8"
square washers into the 2" X 8" plate at 24" OC (layout to avoid
the truss locations) and place the 2" X 8" wood plate
level onto the
wet concrete beam/lintel – pressing the bolts into wet cement.
Cut the notches in the 2" X 8" wood top plate for the trusses after the concrete has set up.
Note: The perimeter 2" X 8" plates are also
used as backing for nailing the ceiling drywall at all the
exterior walls. Hold the 2" X 8" plate to the
inside of the wall per plans to allow for drywall nailing. At
the interior walls, use 2" concrete/masonry nails driven into the
concrete lintel/beam to install 1/2" plywood backing for drywall
nailing.
TRUSS AND ROOF INSTALLATION:
- After truss's are set in place into the slots of the 2"X8" plate, nail blocks between trusses with Qty (2) rows of 2" X 4"s at the truss ridge line and at corrugated roof lap lines. See architect plans for additional blocking depending on snow loads.
- IMPORTANT: Install minimum Qty (4) 45 degree wood braces from the top cord of the truss's connecting to the 2"X8" plate at the top of the 8' walls. This will hold the truss system in place, create a stronger roof diaphragm and keep the truss's from rolling in a storm or earthquake.
- Install Teco Clips (one side of truss) connecting trusses to the 2" X 8" top plate 24"OC plate/blocks per plans at perimeter of ALL exterior walls. Toe nail the other side of the truss into the 2" X 8" top plate.
- Install (toe nail) 2X blocking (bird stop) BETWEEN the trusses at 8' plate line flush to the face of the ICF foam block at the front and back side of the home per Detail 2 of plans and caulk all edges.
- Screw corrugated metal roofing to trusses with self tapping/sealing screws (waterproof with rubber/plastic washers) at approximately 14" OC on the ridge cap and pitch/slope sides and one screw 12" OC in the middle of the corrugated sheet roofing wherever there is added wood blocking below. Use 2" special self-tapping/self sealing sheet metal corrugated roofing screws. Begin installation at one side/edge of the home and lap (therefore screw through two sheets of metal roofing that are lapped for water tight) corrugated roofing sheets to center on trusses at 24" OC.
- Install metal ridge cap for corrugated metal roofing with screws 14" OC.
- Lap all corrugated metal roofing vertically at pitched areas a minimum of 24" and ridge cap a minimum of 12".
- Install corrugated metal roofing beginning from the lower 8' plate line (bottom) finishing at the ridge line (top).
- There is a 12" eave/overhang on the front and rear of home. Install corrugated metal roofing 13" overhang or 1" to the weather per the drawings.
- Install Z-bar flashing, tyvek and T1-11 Plywood to gable end truss’s per Detail 1, per plans. Install backing by adding 2" X 4"s as required for a flat nailing surface for the T1-11 siding. (Note: It may be easier to install the T1-11 siding prior to installing the corrugated metal roofing.)
- Install Qty 2 gable end vents
- Staple Tyvek to gable end trusses.
- Use nail gun with #8 common nails to install T1-11.
- Alternative to connecting truss's to 2" X 8" top plate: Connect/anchor the ends of the trusses to the 2" X 8" wood plate with Qty 2 Simpson S/H3 Hurricane Ties, one on each side on the ends of each truss. This method of attachment may replace the A34 Teco clips and 2-16d nails toe nailing the trusses to the wood plate as per plan details. On gable ends, connect trusses to the 2" X 8" wood plate with A34 Teco clips per plans.
Roof Plans (PDF)
Truss Plans
Detail 1 (PDF)
Detail 2 (PDF)
STEP 11: INSULATION AND DRYWALL
DRYWALL CEILINGS:
 |
- Staple R19 Kraft faced bats to bottom of trusses in ceilings only.
- At exterior walls, 2" X 8" top plates are backing for drywall.
- At both sides of all Interior Walls, install 1/2" plywood flat between the trusses for drywall nailing.
- Run drywall perpendicular and screw 6" OC to the wood trusses. There is no need for additional backing – butt ends of drywall screw to the trusses and drywall sides are not screwed except where there are trusses.
- Tape all drywall joints with self sticking fiberglass mesh tape.
- Hand trowel Qty (2) coats of drywall joint compound on all tape joints and sand smooth.
- Texture ceilings with Qty (1) coat of plaster texture using drywall hopper and knock down with 24" trowel.
STEP 12: EXTERIOR
PAINTING
STEP 13: CABINETS/TUB-SHOWER/CLOSET SHELVING/WINDOW SHUTTERS
STEP 14: PAINTING/FINISH HARDWARE-ELECTRIC-PLUMBING/COUNTER TOPS/LIGHTING;APPLIANCES/WATER HEATERS/BASEBOARD/HEATERS
- Any connections to walls, such as installing cabinets and shelving - use blue screws and connect to concrete columns in ICF foam blocks
- Ariston 2.5 gallon water heater is installed under the kitchen sink.
- Ariston 4 gal water heater is installed above the toilet in the bath. Install in a box made with T1-11 and 2" X 4" framework connected to the wall with blue screws.
- Plumbing fixtures and appliances are from local suppliers.
- Baseboard wall heaters (electric or gas - see plans) are from local suppliers
- Counter tops may be Formica or tile.
- Balance of finish work, use conventional methods.
- Paint with heavy texture weenie rollers to completely cover the rough wall and ceiling surfaces.